Biking -- Central European Adventure Tours, Jáchymova 4, Praha 1 (tel./fax 222-328-879), rents touring bikes and arranges whatever transport you need for them. The best biking is outside Prague, on the tertiary roads and paved paths in the provinces. They will suggest routes and provide maps. A 1-day guided biking trip around Karlstejn Castle and Konepruské Caves costs 680Kc ($24). Call ahead to make arrangements. Tickets and information are also available at the PIS office, Na Príkope 20, Praha 1.
Golf -- Czechs are rediscovering golf on the new tournament-caliber course with a world-class view at the Praha Karlstejn Golf Club, 30 minutes south of Prague. For details and directions, see chapter 10. You can improve your game during cold weather at the Erpet Golf Center, Strakonická 510, Praha 5 (tel. 257-321-177). Opened in 1994, the renovated innards of a Communist-era sports hall now has a tropical setting of driving platforms, with pitching and putting greens on Astroturf and interactive video simulators. It's open daily from 10am to 11pm (from 9am on weekends). Take metro line B to Smíchovské nádrazí. The price is 200Kc ($5) per hour, including the use of a well-equipped fitness center.
Health & Fitness Clubs -- On the 25th floor of the Corinthia Towers Hotel, Kongresová 1, Praha 4, the Level 25 Health and Fitness Centrum (tel. 261-191-326) provides weight machines, free weights, exercise bikes, step machines, a small pool, a sauna, and a solarium. The modern facility also offers tanning beds, squash courts, a whirlpool, and massages. It's open to non-guests, but you need to reserve in advance by phone. A 1-day pass is 500Kc ($18). Squash courts can be rented for 400Kc ($14) per hour. The club is open Monday to Friday from 7am to 10:30pm and Saturday and Sunday from 8am to 10:30pm. Take metro line C to Vysehrad.
The Erpet Golf Center (Fitness Center), Strakonické 510, Praha 5 (tel. 257-321-177; www.erpet.cz), has modern fitness machines, free weights, electronic rowers, and treadmills. There's also a relaxation center, with a dry sauna and a co-ed whirlpool that's usually open to the public. Use of the fitness and relaxation centers costs 300Kc ($11) for 3 hours. It's open Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday through Sunday from 9am to 11pm, Wednesday from 9am to 9pm. Take metro line B to Smíchovské nádrazí.
Jogging -- Prague's sometimes thick smog makes jogging more like smoking, but on clear days -- and there are many in summer -- the air is bearable. For the most scenic run, jog on the paths atop the Vysehrad citadel, accessible by tram no. 3 or 17 from Karlovo námestí. The parks at Kampa and Letná are also good places to run. The paths crisscrossing Petrín Hill offer a challenging uphill route. The best no-traffic, long-distance runs -- flat, long, and mostly tree-lined -- are found at Stromovka Park.
If you want to run through central Prague, use the traffic-restricted walking zones as often as you can. For an approximately 2.5km (1 1/2-mile) circuit, start at Mustek at the end of Wenceslas Square, run down Na Príkope through the Powder Tower (Prasná brána) to Celetná Street all the way to Old Town Square, run around the Hus monument, run back to Zelezná Street past the Estates' Theater on to Rytírská Street, and run back to Mustek. This route is virtually free of cars, but your feet will be pounding the bricks. Try running in early morning or late evening before the crowds block your way.
The Prague International Marathon--"The narrow streets in the first two miles enforce a leisurely early pace, and the violinists on the Charles Bridge are the first live musicians along the way. After that, jazz, funk, samba, reggae and classical music groups help the runners as the miles begin to take their toll."
-- George A. Hirsch, Publisher, Runner's World
The Prague International Marathon (PIM), Prague's premier annual civic-pride event, has grown by leaps and bounds since it was first run in 1995. The 42.2km (26.2-mile) race attracted just under 1,000 runners in its first year, but on the 10th anniversary of this event, in 2004, they expect more than 8,000 runners from 60 countries. That number combined with the Fun Run, a 6km (4-mile) race for families, totals about 40,000 people or even more.
Many come to take advantage of the unique chance to run through Prague's cobblestone streets without having to dodge Skodas and trams. Others, especially non-runners, love the festive atmosphere in Old Town Square, the music groups which line the race routes and, of course, the great Czech beer that flows across the finish line.
My husband John, a consummate couch potato, was so inspired by the event that he was motivated to train just enough to run the 1999 marathon (although he missed his goal of breaking 4 hours and has yet to attempt it again).
The marathon route takes runners through the very heart of old Prague -- from Old Town Square to the Revolucní Street embankment, then across Charles Bridge where rows of violins greet participants with a flourish. The route then heads into Lesser Town, for a twisting jaunt through the ancient narrow streets under Prague Castle. Next is the left bank quay along the Vltava River on Strakonická Street, where you run several miles through some not very attractive industrial areas to the halfway point at Zbraslav Chateau. You then head back to Lesser Town, this time detouring over the Mánesuv Bridge, down the quay on the opposite side, and eventually back to Revolucní. This is the final stage of the race, which winds through the quirky streets of Old Town and eventually ends back at Old Town Square. Public transport on race day is free for participants who show their start number. A free massage and plenty of affordable pivo (beer) is available in the finish area, along with plenty of other energy-restoring liquids.
For those who would like to give it a shot, the race will take place on May 23, 2004, starting at 9am in Old Town Square (Staromestské nám.). Marathoners can register for the race in person at the PIM EXPO, the pavillion in Wenceslas Square (Záhoranského 3, Praha 2), from May 10 to May 22 between 10am and 9pm. You can also register in advance by phone or online (tel. 224-919-209; www.pim.cz). The registration fee for the full marathon is 65€ or about $58; for family fun runs, the cost is about 15€ or $13. All marathon runners must get their timing chip (shorter distances are not officially timed) at the race pavillion.
Swimming -- Summer doesn't last long in Prague, and when it arrives, many city dwellers are only too happy to cool off in one of the city's many pools. In addition to the hotel pools listed in chapter 4, there's the Dzbán Reservoir, in the Sárka nature reserve, Praha 6. Dzbán is fronted by a grassy "beach" that can -- and often does -- accommodate hundreds of bathers. There's a special section for nude swimming and sunbathing. To reach Sárka, take tram no. 26 from the Dejvická metro station.
Tennis -- At the First Czech Lawn Tennis Club Praha at Stvanice Island (tel. 222-324-601), you can play on the courts where Martina Navrátilová and Ivan Lendl trained. In the morning, the rental rate is 300Kc ($11) per hour per court; in the afternoon, it's 500Kc ($18). It's best to make a reservation if the weather's nice.